(sorry for the delay in updating the posts. we have been on a sailboat. amy started school. ed started wildland season. we had to mail out invitations. blah, blah, blah. anywhoo…)
After skiing Courmayer, Mark suggested we ski something steeper. He contacted a Chamonix Mountain Guide named Henri Bouilliet for some beta. Instead of simply telling us where to go, Henri said, “I ski with you tomorrow.” He picked us up at 7:30 am in his Audi A4 wagon and we jetted back through the Mont Blanc Tunnel into Italy. This ride was faster and smoother than the previous day’s bus ride. We took 3 funivies (small trams) to the top of the Italian side of Mont Blanc. From the summit plateau we hiked to the top of the Marbree Couloir, another 6000 ft couloir. The entrance was a no-fall 55 degree face that mellowed out into a 40 degree slope. The skiing was variable, from hardpack to powder, corn to slush.
That run took most of the morning. We had lunch at the funivie Cafe and decided to ski the Vallee Blanche back into Chamonix. Matt’s knee was sore so he opted to go back to Chamonix. Mark went with him for company. Henri, Amy and I rode the three cars back to the top of the Vallee Blanche. For many people, the Vallee Blanche is a once in a lifetime ski descent. We skied it twice in once trip to Chamonix!

Henri et Edward avec Mont Blanc

Skiing by many crevasses
After skiing the Vallee Blanche, we said goodbye to Henri. We invited him to dinner at the local brew pub. He said he would join us, along with his partner, Marie. He also invited us to ski with them the next day! We met the Ski Weekend posse at the pub, drank some beer, ate some wings and made plans to ski the Col D’Argentiere.
We met at Les Grands Montets for the early Tram. There were many guides with clients in tow. The pub was noisy and crowded the night before, so we didn’t really get a chance to meet Marie. After some re-introductions, we made our way to the top of the resort. Marie’s parents are from Argentina. She grew up in Canada and now works in Geneva. She speaks English, Spanish, French, Italian and Romansch. I was able to speak to her in French; She and Amy spoke Spanish.

at the Col D'Argentiere
From the top of the resort, we crossed the Argentiere glacier and hiked up toward the Col. The tour took us about 6 hours round trip. Everyone was a little tired, especially Matt. He’s a guy who can push a 1500 lb. sled for about 20 yards/metres. Asking him to hike several miles and climb 4000 feet is another story. I’ve never seen a meltdown like this before. We could tell he was mad by how little he spoke. Marie was in back, urging him to take a few more steps. “It’s just up there, Matt,” she said. Mark and I offered to ski down and carry his pack. He stubbornly refused and eventually made it to the top.

henri checks on Matt
Like everywhere else in the Alps, the views were amazing. We could see the Matterhorn in the distance. We were also near Mt. Dolent, which is the corner of France, Italy and Switzerland.

on top of the world
After a quick lunch, we skied back to the glacier and into the resort. Skiing varied from crust to windbuff, powder to hardpack. I was tired and loved every minute of it.

some of the wind-blown powder
We made plans for dinner at Munchie, a swedish place in town. It was the best meal of our trip. Go there if you get the chance. Over dinner, Henri and Marie asked us our plans for tomorrow. We didn’t have any at that point. Marie said, “We will pick you up at 7pm and go to Switzerland.” Amy and I looked at each other and said, “Okay.” I was sure it would be another great adventure. Henri picked a great Cotes du Rhone for dinner. He paid for the wine; we paid for his dinner. It was the least we could do.
We woke up late the next morning with no real plans. It was Matt’s last day to ski. He wanted to ski the Vallee Blanche, so we walked to the base of the Aiguille du Midi. There were a lot of tourists in line waiting to ascend the 7000 feet to the Aiguille. We made it to the top and took some pics of the bridge in Blizzard of Aahhs. The skiing alone isn’t very challenging. The challenge lies in negotiating the crevasses, ice falls, cliffs and guided groups on the glacier. We watched a fat Italian man fall on his face while crossing a narrow snow bridge. We also watched a guide lower himself into a crevasse to retrieve a client’s ski which had fallen into said crevasse. We made it to the bottom of the glacier and rode the train into town.

matt cruising the vallee blanche
Henri and Marie picked us up around 7pm. We loaded the A4 and headed to Bourg St. Pierre, Switzerland. It’s near Verbier, which is also along the Haute Route. I stayed in Bourg St. Pierre in 2001 with Darrell, Noah and Jonah while on the Haute Route. I had a feeling this would be a little bit more comfortable.
We stayed at the Bivouac Napoleon, a small hotel in a small town. Henri told us that Napoleon had stayed here during the war and had promised to pay for his food and lodging. The locals are still waiting to be paid.
Our goal was to climb the Hannibal Couloir on Mt. Velan, ski the west aspect into Italy and then return to France that night. The couloir is named after Hannibal, the 3rd Century BC Carthaginian General who rode an elephant across the Alps to attack Rome. Apparently, Vin Diesel is directing the movie, so look for that soon in your local theater.
We woke up at 5am, had a light breakfast and drove to the ski area of Super St. Bernard, just up the road. The St. Bernard Monastery is also up the road. This is the monastery famous for the big furry dogs. The monks take the puppies into the lower valleys for the winter and return them to the monastery in the summer.
We hiked 4000 vertical feet from the parking lot to the base of the couloir. After putting on crampons, we hiked another 2000 feet up the couloir. It was colder and windier than the previous days, so we didn’t linger too long on top. The ski into Les Etroubles, Italy was long and very spring like. Henri had to belay us down the steepest part, which was about 55 degrees and icy. The rest of the descent was typical spring skiing. By my calculation, we climbed 6000 feet and descended over 7500 feet. At the end of the day, I was again very tired and very happy. I think Amy felt the same.

Hannibal Couloir

One Steep Mother

Mt. Velan, Italian side

En Les Etroubles
We ended our stay in Chamonix with a rest day, enjoyed some shopping for gifts and general relaxation. For dinner, we met Henri and Marie, Mark and Big Dan’s family at le Vieux Luge. We had a 15 minute snowshoe up the piste to an old cow barn before we would enjoy another fine meal. I can’t describe it other than you must try it for yourself. Visit Les Houches ski area when you drive in from Geneva.

So good, so tasty
Start to finish, we had an amazing trip to Chamonix. Thanks to Mark, Matt, Henri et Marie, Fatty Foster, Meredith, Big Dan, Little Dan, and all the Ski Weekend posse. We are already planning our return. but first we have a trip to the BVI and a wedding in October. Did I mention I asked Mark to be one of my groomsmen? I asked him, but the sonofabitch won’t get me his suit size.